Sonamarg: The power of the elements

Sonamarg: The power of the elements

A trip to Kashmir cannot be complete without a trek to Sonamarg - an alpine valley surrounded by the Himalayan peaks with melting glaciers. As we left Srinagar and drove to Sonamarg, a popular tourist destination, hardly we knew what lay ahead. The car halted and we were told that we could either trek to the glacier or go on horseback or hire a jeep. The jeep would take us up to a spot from whereon we had to then go trekking to the glacier. While we all would have enjoyed the trek, at the same time knowing that it could rain any time, we decided to take the journey by four wheel drive.

We were told that Sonamarg has no permanent settlement and is inaccessible during winter due to heavy snowfall and avalanches. We hired the protection clothing – fur coats and boots and set for the glacier. We were also carrying our umbrellas and hand gloves .No sooner did we land at the predetermined spot, we all started walking towards the glacier. Green meadows, a cloudy blue sky, gentle breeze, icy but pleasant cold and the stony walkway built for the horses – a perfect setting for an enjoyable walk in the company of your near and dear ones. One but can’t help thanking the Lord for such glorious opportunities, kindly bestowed by him.

However as we started walking to our dismay we realized that it had been raining past few days and so the whole place was wet and mucky. The mud was sticky and lumpy. Not wanting to miss the glacier, we started walking along the stony pathway. We are so used to walk on foot paths as pedestrians that we hardly realized that the path was made for the horse and not for the pedestrians. The place was thronged with tourists and since all were facing the same problem, the pathway became crowded.   Now the people were coming between the right of way of the horses and the horsemen.

The horses used to kick the people in retaliation. A first ever sight I saw wherein the horses just pushed people who blocked their way. We then got the trick. Each one of us - we were 4 in our group then started walking just behind a horse, almost towing the tail. If one walks that way, one is shielded from getting pushed, we realized. By and by we reached the glacier.

It was getting colder and due to the rains the glacier was melting .Icy cold water was flowing like a rivulet. The glacier itself was very difficult to climb as we kept slipping off and falling. Not wanting to break our bones we ladies decided to just be at the edge, while my son not wanting to be left out joined another team, with his uncle. He was keenly climbing the glacier higher and higher. He was so deft in climbing that we just watched him in awe. Soon they were seen as small dots on the white sheet.

Just then it began to rain and we could see the weather changing from pleasant to cold to jittery cold. My sister spotted a charcoal baked corn on the cob seller and we rushed to eat the corn. We were waiting for the tender mouth watering corn on the cob and as we were very close to the embers, automatically we got the warmth. Oh how lovely! When the seller realized that we were shivering, he quickly gave us a kangri  - the traditional Kashmiri way to keep warm through freezing winters - wicker baskets filled with coal that people keep close to them and cover with blankets - cozy!

The drizzle now turned to a downpour and the blue sky changed to a dark grey. The atmosphere was cold and chilly. We were shivering even with the fur coats. Joy was now muted to an eerie feeling of fear. Open meadows with no shade, pouring rain, messy muddy cold water flowing at the feet, dark sky and biting cold. The resplendent nature had now decided to show the power of the elements. We were just waiting with baited breath and chattering jaws, for our team to return.

Not able to withstand the rain, we started walking down the pathway in search of some shade. Just then we spotted a tent that was vending tea and bites. To our delight he was also preparing hot noodles. We sat on chairs and ordered for noodles. Normally we would not have even touched it but with no options even the noodles were a great treat! We ordered it more for the shelter than anything else! We were wet and the biting cold had reached our bones. So piping hot noodles was the right salve.

Watching the ferocious nature, while sipping tea in the safety of the tent was a different experience. The imposing Himalayan peaks, the sky, the torrential rain, the muddy water, nothing mattered the moment we were in the protective tent. We sat silently gazing at the scene being unfolded before us.

By and by our team too returned and we set for our journey back home……

Anagha Hunnurkar

June 17, 2012